Day 1: Landed in Phoenix. Picked up rental. Stopped at Walmart for camping gear. Ate at a Peruvian restaurant. Food was good. Lucuma ice cream was delicious. Had a headache after and suspected my meal contained msg. Started the drive toward Sedona. Had to stop and photograph the cacti. They were growing everywhere on the side of the highway. I am unexplainably attracted to these giant cacti, growing tall and stoic with arms stretched out toward the sky. Silent sun-worshippers.
Gained elevation as approached Sedona. Entered the Red Rock area. It was getting dark already, but the could see that the landscape was beautiful. Stopped at Elote, had mescal drink. Drove to hotel, Sugar Loaf Lodge. It was just warm enough to go for a swim in the hotel pool, even though the water was freezing. Sat in the outdoor hot tub with two other couples and shared stories and laughed.
Day 2:
The next morning we woke early and went to the Airport Mesa vortex trail. There were a lot of people on the mesa meditating. We walked along some of the trails and took in the vistas. We saw some blue birds and a hummingbird. 
Once the sun came up high and the crowd dispersed, we sat on the mesa. I didn’t feel anything at first, but once I did it was overwhelming. I couldn’t stop myself from crying. Not sobbing, but a silent cry. There was a lump in my throat. I felt unable to leave the spot until it was finished.
We were eventually joined by a lone man with a long beard who played a song on his phone. It was a bluegrass cover version of Bruce Springstein’s I’m on Fire. Before we left I told him I enjoyed the song, and he told me the band was Town Mountain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9guD3Uv_g4
Once we walked back toward the car to leave, I cleared my throat and spit out the lump – I spit three times, a thick mucous. I felt sort of like I had been cleansed. I felt buzzed and happy, content. We went to Whole Foods to get some breakfast and coffee, and snacks for the road… My lips were super dry and cracked so I bought some lip balm. The checkout lady told me I shouldn’t buy it, but should instead go to the farmer’s market and buy lip balm from the Crazy Goat Lady. We didn’t have time to go to the market, so I bought the balm and we headed out toward the Grand Canyon.
Heading up 89A and through Oak Creek Canyon, the scenery was gorgeous. The air was cooler. We stopped to look at the creek and saw the campground where we would later be staying.
We stopped to take in some of the sights along the way to the canyon. There was a scenic pull-off with a gorge view, and Native American ladies selling trinkets. We looked in the Ranger’s office at some posters of native plants and animals.
“When your spirit cries for peace, come to a world of canyons deep in an old land; feel the exaltation of the high plateaus, the strength of moving waters, the simplicity of sand and grass, and the silence of growth.” -August Fruge
Outside of Flagstaff, we passed through varying landscapes of the Coconino Forest. We saw some Aspens and stopped to photograph them.
The landscape continued to change as we drove. We passed through this area where the wheat-colored grass contrasted against the almost black trunks of the tall pines. We saw homesteads out in the middle of nowhere, with scrawny cows grazing.
We stopped at a cheesy shop on the side of the road and I received a fortune from an Indian chief fortune-telling machine. It was a long story that ended with a joke and I can’t remember any of it now, but it was strange and entertaining. There were some random bones and skulls and tee pees outside.
We arrived at the Grand Canyon Village at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. We set up camp and took the shuttle bus to the rim trail to see the canyon. We spent the day walking the rim and looking at the canyon. It is so large and wide and deep that it is almost incomprehensible to the brain. It looks almost flat, like a backdrop. I saw an ant on the rim, and wondered if it was aware that the earth dropped off just feet away from him – sort of like humans in the universe. As the wind picked up in the canyon, it sounded like the ocean. I never knew the Grand Canyon sounds like the ocean.
It got late, we saw the sunset, then we went to a restaurant and had elk burgers and Grand Canyon Pilsner.
We camped out at Mather Campground.
A nice German lady took this picture of us. She was not terribly impressed by the canyon. Later we ran into her and her husband when he came to take a photo where we were sitting at the rim. She yelled at him to come back because he got too close to the edge. I wondered how many people actually plummet off into the canyon. I googled it. Approximately 12 people a year die at the canyon, due to various causes. There is an article about a man who died last year. Headline reads, “Authorities investigating the death of a Texas man at Grand Canyon National Park believe he fell about 350 feet from the canyon's edge after trying to retrieve something, possibly a hat.”
I tried to take some night images, but not very successfully. Lots of stars. Saw some shooting stars. Couldn’t see the Milky Way. Maybe because of smog or maybe moon was too bright. Did manage to photograph this cactus that was blooming at night… and we saw bats.
Day 3: The next morning we saw some female elk in the campground.
We packed up and headed out toward Page, AZ for our Antelope Canyon tour. Along the way, we stopped at some Grand Canyon overlooks. These were much better views of the canyon than those at the Grand Canyon Village. One of them has a watchtower you can climb to get an elevated view. We also stopped to see some Indian ruins and did a quick guided-tour with Ranger Ted. We learned about how they raised crops and made buildings.
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There was a small museum of artifacts at the Tusayan Ruins. (The Ruins are an 800-year-old Pueblo Indian site located within Grand Canyon National Park, and is considered by the National Park Service to be one of the major archeological sites in Arizona.)
These little horses are made from twigs:
I liked the paintings inside the watchtower.
After exiting the Grand Canyon park, the landscape became more desert-like. We stopped at this little pullover that had a view of a dried up river, an American flag with an Indian chief, and some porta-potties…
We arrived for the Antelope Canyon tour right on time. The canyon is on Navajo land, and the only way to visit is with a Navajo guide. Our guide’s name was Anthony. He had a nice presence and sense of humor. We enjoyed his tour of the canyon. The canyon is cool and the walls are so smooth. It is really beautiful. (The lip balm is not working.)
After the canyon tour, we asked our guide where we could go swimming. He suggested Lone Rock Beach. We decided to go. But first, we went down the street to try Big John’s Texas BBQ. It was perfect. Then we headed to the beach. It was only about 15 minutes away, but turned out it was in Utah in the Glen Canyon Recreation Area. We paid the fee and drove in and down onto the beach. It was crowded with people there for the day hanging out and camping. The water was ice-cold! But so refreshing on a super hot day.
After swimming, we hit the road and drove to Holbrook, AZ to stay for the night. The sky darkened and it looked like it might actually rain. Or form a tornado. It didn’t do either… and we enjoyed a nice sunset along the way
Day 4: Holbrook to Petrified Forest National Park and back to Sedona.
Stayed at a sub-par motel in the deserted town of Holbrook. Cold swim in the pool in the morning while waiting for laundry to finish drying. Breakfast at Aliberto’s. Huevos rancheros.
Petrified Forest National Park – drive through and trails…
Painted Desert.
This raven is trying to stay cool in the tiny shade of this little shrub. A Buddhist monk wrapped in red cloth brought him a banana. He grabbed it and flew away.
Blue mesa trail. Like walking on the moon. Or, as Arturo said, Mars.
Petrified wood.
Stopped for bad Mexican food at El Rancho in Holbrook. A lone Native American elder man came in. Another table invited him to join them, and they spoke in a mix of their native language and English.
Rest area by the large crater on the way back to Sedona. Didn’t go look at the crater.
Back in Sedona! Found a last minute discounted room at The Baby Quail Inn. It was lovely. Quaint, fragrant gardens, babbling water fountain, outdoor hot tub.
Day 5: Up to see sunrise at Airport Mesa. Breakfast at Whole Foods. Found this art on a lamppost: Don’t Piss on Today.
The Bell Rock vortex trail. We met a nice local named Francis who offered to show us the way up. He was an older gentleman who was a counselor and now works with elderly people. He comes to Bell Rock every morning to drink his coffee and write in his journal. I didn’t want to climb all the way up, so he and Arturo climbed. I sat and took in the scenery and was very peaceful. Francis gave Arturo life-coaching advice. Fear is only in your mind. If you say you cannot do something, it is an excuse. We talked about how important it is to experience new things, how older people need to stay stimulated, explore, see new things, meet new people to stay vibrant. He leads group trips. The trips have included Bangkok and Guatemala. I got his contact info.
The day got increasingly hot, so we headed up to Oak Creek Canyon, set up camp at the Manzanita Campground, and headed up to Slide Rock. It was already getting crowded. The water was so cold! We slid down the sliding rocks, Arturo jumped off the cliff, we swam and explored…
We went back into town and visited Oak Creek Brewery in Tlaquepaque Village, met Albert Einstein, and stayed to take in some live flamenco music in the courtyard.
Attempted some more night photography, again not very successful! Still no Milky Way.
Stars at Courthouse Butte…
Stars at the campground…
Day 6: We slept until 8am! Whoop whoop! Stopped at Indian Gardens and had the best breakfast! Local, fresh, wonderful atmosphere! I wish I had a picture of my beautiful avocado toast with watermelon radish, cucumber, fresh dill, and chili infused olive oil.
Drove to the Boynton Canyon trail. We walked almost the whole 3 miles before realizing it was almost time to be out of our campsite. We had to turn around and boogie back to the car. We were almost at the end! Some other hikers told us at the end it opens up to a view of the canyon. Always pack up your campsite before leaving in the morning!!!! Lip balm still not working. Should have listened and gone to the Crazy Goat Lady. Skin is dry and cracking. The desert is sucking the moisture out of us!
Kachina Rock.
It was a hot walk, but towards the end the trail leads through a forest.
After taking down camp, time to swim again. Found a nice spot off the road on Oak Creek.
After taking down camp, time to swim again. Found a nice spot off the road on Oak Creek.
Lunch at Indian Gardens (yum!), and time to start heading toward Phoenix to catch our flight home. Stopped at the Sunset Overlook on the way. Saw another hummingbird.
More cacti along the highway, dinner at Peruvian restaurant, then goodbye Arizona!
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